A perfect way to spend a day in Abruzzo: ceramics, mountains, and a walk to a hermitage

If you’re staying with us and fancy a day out that blends history, creativity, nature, and a bit of gentle adventure, then this might just be the day trip for you.

Start your day in the beautiful village of Castelli, world-famous for its beautiful ceramics, and then spend the afternoon wandering through the quiet streets of Casale San Nicola and finishing with a walk up to the wonderfully preserved Eremo di San Nicola. It's a full day of Abruzzo’s finest – without ever feeling rushed.

Morning in Castelli: The art of maiolica

From our apartments, Castelli is just under an hour’s drive – a lovely route that takes you through rolling countryside, up winding mountain roads, and finally into the rugged foothills of the Gran Sasso range. This little village is world-famous for its ceramics, yet remains delightfully low-key – a true hidden treasure of the Teramo province. The village itself sits at around 500 metres above sea level, so you’ll be treated to some fantastic views along the way.

As you approach Castelli, you’ll start to notice ceramic panels and signs decorating even the roadside walls – a little preview of what’s to come. Parking is easy enough, with a few designated car parks just outside the historic centre. From there, it’s best to explore on foot – the village is compact, walkable, and full of charming corners. Its cobbled streets, breathtaking views, and a tradition of hand-painted ceramics that dates back to the Renaissance is sure to win you over.

Pop into the Museo delle Ceramiche to get a sense of Castelli’s artistic history – it's housed in an old convent and offers a wonderful overview of the styles that made Castelli famous across Europe. Afterwards, browse the family-run studios where you can often watch artisans at work, painting with delicate brushes and centuries-old techniques.

A Hidden Gem: San Donato’s ceramic ceiling

You can't leave Castelli without visiting the Chiesa di San Donato, just a few minutes from the village centre. From the outside, it looks like a modest country chapel – but step inside and look up. You’ll be greeted by an extraordinary sight: a ceiling made entirely of hand-painted ceramic tiles, created by local artists in the 17th century.

Each tile is unique, forming a colourful mosaic of saints, stars, animals, and intricate patterns – a true masterpiece of religious folk art and often referred to as the Sistine Chapel of maiolica. I am purposely not going to add a photo, you really need to see it to appreciate it.

Walking up to the old town

A shop front in Castelli

A view from the belvedere

Staris leading down to some workshops

Some old signs in the main square

A view from the belvedere showing the old town to the side

Afternoon in Casale San Nicola: Into the woods and up to the hermitage

After lunch, hop back in the car and make your way towards Casale San Nicola, around a 30-minute drive through increasingly wild and quiet countryside. The roads get narrower and the sense that you are being enveloped by the mountains increases. Take your time, this is slow travel at its best: untamed, untouched and peaceful.

The perfect spot for a picnic

We often pack a picnic when we go on these day trips. There's nothing quite like having lunch in the great outdoors immersed in the wild and untamed nature that is Abruzzo. We waited until we got to Casale San Nicola to have lunch. There are a couple of large picnic benches opposite the bar and and the view of the Corno Grande is pretty special.

The village of Casale San Nicola is well worth a wander after lunch. Opposite the picnic area there is a bar if you fancy a coffee and just around the corner is a water fountain to refill your water bottle before you start your walk to the hermitage. The village feels well loved and cared for and you will find many little art works in its narrow streets. As with many villages there is also a big bench which has a fabulous view of the Corno Grande.

A walk into the forest and up to the Hermitage: Stillness and a view to take your breath away

From the village to the right of the waterfall the path is clearly sign posted in the direction of the hermitage. It starts out fairly sedately but after you leave the path it becomes a stony track weaving its way upward through the trees. You will need sturdy walking shoes and walking poles would be helpful. If you take your time it should be achievable for most people. Along the path the trees provide shade from the sun in places and there are two or three places along the way to top up your water bottle. There comes a moment when you think you will never arrive at the hermitage but then you come around a bend and hidden in among the trees you will see your first glimps of the hermitage.

At the top of the walk sits the Eremo di San Nicola, an ancient hermitage in a small clearing surrounded by an ancient forest. The site dates back to at least the 11th century and was once home to a small community of Benedictine monks. Today, the building stands in simple, quiet testimony to the people who lived and prayed here, seeking solitude and connection to nature.

The hermitage is not grand but its charm lies in its simplicity. Rough stone walls, a wooden door, and the simple chapel interior create a feeling of deep serenity. There's often no one else there, especially on weekdays, which adds to the sense of discovery and peaceful isolation.

From the clearing in front of the hermitage, the views stretch out across the valleys of the Teramo province, with the mighty Gran Sasso rising in the distance. It’s the sort of place that invites you to stop for a moment and just experience the stillness. There are two large picnic tables and near by there is a statue of the Madonna. Next to the statue you will find a metal box containing a donation box and a small journal to record your name and the date of your visit. We spent some time reading the names of those that had come before us, both local and international visitors.

This is just one of Abruzzo’s many hidden hermitages, once used by monks and pilgrims, now open to anyone looking for a moment of solitude or reflection.