Autumn hike to the Faggi Torti in Ceppo: A day of vibrant colours, autumnal vibes and mountain views in Rocca Santa Maria

There’s something magical about autumn time here in Abruzzo. The skies are bright blue, the air is crisp and the forests glow in shades of gold and copper. It’s the perfect time to slow down, take in all the colours and explore one of the national parks. On a sunny day in late October we did just that. As is often the case with day trips in Abruzzo, the journey is as much a part of the day as the destination. We like it like that! We drove up to Ceppo (Rocca Santa Maria), a small mountain hamlet at the foot of the Monti della Laga massif. From there, we set off on a gentle walk through the beech woods, following a trail carpeted with fallen leaves followed by a picnic perched on a fallen log in the midday sun and, later, to the mysterious “Faggi Torti”, the twisted beech trees that make this day trip unique. It was the perfect autumn escape!

Getting to Ceppo

Reaching Ceppo already feels like part of the adventure. The road winds steadily up from the Teramo hills, passing through woods and small villages before opening onto sweeping views of the Monti della Laga. We stopped several times to take photos, it really was a lovely drive.

Ceppo itself sits at around 1,300 metres above sea level, within the Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park, and is a perfect starting point for mountain walks. In the autumn the hamlet is all but deserted during the week and there is plenty of space to park. From here, you can easily choose between several paths, from short woodland strolls to longer hikes.

On the day we visited the forest was bathed in low autumn sun and the trees were ablaze with every shade of amber, red and bronze. We packed our picnic, laced up our boots and off we set.

The trail through autumn woods

We started out by taking a path directly in front of the car park. The path had us winding gently between impressive beech and fir trees, tall and stark with smooth pale trunks. The ground was thick with fallen leaves, in some places they were 30cm or 40cm deep, like a river made entirely of crunchy autumn leaves. Sunlight filtered through the canopy making the leaves burst with colour and creating interesting shadows. The trail itself was easy to follow making it perfect for a relaxed autumn walk. We found ourselves stopping often to take photos or simply to take in the silence. Apart from the distant sound of a stream it felt as if the whole forest had stopped for a moment to admire its own colours.

Picnic in nature

There’s something so simple yet satisfying about eating outdoors, especially if you’ve just spent the morning walking. It’s the perfect way to build up an appetite and what better place to have some lunch than surrounded by a forest in full autumn colour. We nearly always take a packed lunch when we go walking as we like the flexibility this gives. There’s not always a village nearby and if there is then lunch time hours in the small mountain villages are often short (12:30 to 14:30) and there’s nothing worse than getting to the restaurant and finding it closed. We will often stop at a local bar and treat ourselves to a caffe corretto or a hot chocolate before heading home though.

Hiking up to the Faggi Torti

After lunch we made our way back to the car and drove a little further on to a carpark near the campsite. From here the path to the Faggi Torti heads straight up into the mountains. It was steep and good hiking boots are a must. The trail was well marked out with the usual red and white markers painted onto the trees. For those of you not familiar with these painted strips they are the most common marking you will see on marked trails. They are a painted rectangle with a red stripe on top and a white stripe on the bottom and they confirm you're heading in the right direction. They are often painted on rocks or trees. The climb was a little demanding and it definitely made us slow our pace and take in the scenery. After around 45 minutes of walking up through the forest the trees end and you find yourself in a grassy tan coloured meadow. The path is well worn and easy to follow and after about 20 minutes you find yourself at the top of the mountain and a vantage point with spectacular expansive views. From here it’s just a short walk to the “Bosco dei Faggi Torti”, a stand of beech trees that have grown curved and twisted over time. It’s the kind of understated natural wonder that Abruzzo does so well. Formed by centuries of slow ground movement (known locally as reptazione), the shifting terrain has bent the beeches into surreal shapes — some arching gracefully, others spiralling towards the sky. They’re living sculptures, a testament to the power of nature and time.

Our day in Ceppo was one of those simple days out that remind us why we fell in love with Abruzzo. It’s the kind of place that rewards unhurried exploring. If you’re staying with us, this walk is one we’d wholeheartedly recommend. Pack a lunch, bring your camera, and let the forest work its quiet autumn magic on you.

Why should you visit us in autumn?

Autumn is out favourite time here in Abruzzo. It's often dry with sunny blue skies despite the temperature having dropped and the autumn colours are absolutely spectacular. Also it's a time of reflection and getting ready for winter. The olive harvest is in full swing, trucks selling chestnuts start appearing on the roadside, the dishes become heartier and San Martino is just around the corner. It's tradition to try the new season wine on the 11th of November, often along side freshly roasted chestnuts and the local wineries host tasting events. Not too mention the autumn festivals begin with bonfires, vin brulé and all number of tasty autumnal treats!